Ankarana national park

After Bemaraha's Tsingys, on to Ankarana's Tsingys

Ankarana national park was my first stop on an itinerary which would lead me to the capital in the north of the country. I needed to do some research there for my work and talk to park visitors. When I arrived at Mahamasina, the village near the park's entry, I left my bag in one of the little huts around the protected area and went to the park's reception to prepare the following day with one of the guides.

The park is made up of an immense chalk plateau which was once below sea level but which has gradually risen as a result of the movement of the tectonic plates. What is special about Ankarana national park is how chalk has been gradually eroded into sharp points, known as Tsingys. Under the surface an immense network of caves and underground passages has been created by the water which flows during the rainy season. The park also protects a forest which is threatened by unauthorised sapphire extraction, something the region is rich in, and trafficking in precious wood.

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There are lots of different routes to explore

There are 8 different circuits of varying lengths around the park, some of which can be combined to make a long trek. After finding out about the different routes from my guide, I chose the Green Lake route, which goes to a sacred lake and which can be combined with other trails.

For a circuit like this you need to allow about 9 hours walking so the departure is very early in the morning and the return at the end of the afternoon. Don't forget to wear a hat and sun cream - the sun is very strong - and to bring something to eat and lots of water!

It is possible to camp in the park if you want to, but if not there are lots of basic bungalows available in Mahamasina.

Bizarre trees and fields of stone

The hike began by crossing a forest of baobabs, and bizarrely shaped pachypodes, not to mention the curious "peeling tree", also called the "vazaha tree". The name comes from the bark which looks like it is peeling off, like the skin of vazahas when it encounters the Madagascan sun...Afterwards, we arrived at the towers of Tsingys, those chalk cathedrals created by the wind and the water.

We continued along the path until a river appeared where the water was the ideal temperature for swimming, which was especially pleasant as it was starting to get very hot. After this refreshing interlude the path continued to climb up to Green Lake where we stopped to eat in the middle of the rocks. The view is magnificent: an immense stretch of Tsingys overlooking a small brillliant green lake below. All around, the luxuriant vegetation contrasting with the grey stone makes a breathtaking spectacle. Hidden between the rocks we could see lemurs in the distance looking for food in the trees.

Indiana Jones and the Madagascan Tsingys

The path back was the same as the way out, but we decided to do a detour to cross the suspended bridges in the middle of the canyons on the Benavony circuit, so we could look at the endless Tsingys Rary. Not far from the entrance we saw the imposing "Perte de Rivière" chasm into which three rivers which cross the plateau flow. Return to our point of departure for a well-earned meal and a good night's sleep.

I also recommend you go to see the park's magnificent caves which are decorated with superb stalagmites and stalactites. Some have been used as tombs for the Kings of the Antakarana people who hid in the Ankarana mountains during the invasions by the peoples of the Haute Terre.

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