Adjlun (Jordan)

I really loved Ajloun, with its magnificent Mediterranean landscape. Whereas Jerash is dry and stony, this town in nestled in the lush, green Jordan Valley. I took a walk along little roads lined with pines, oaks and olive trees; as it was Springtime the fields were bursting with flowers. 

The reserve at Ajloun is extremely well managed, finding a balance between eco-tourism and conservation. Only one trail is accessible without a guide. I went on the Soap Maker's trail, which is one of six possible treks that alternates panoramic views with woodland. We rounded up our tour with a visit to an olive oil soap-making workshop that's run by a group of local women. 

I also toured the Qala’at ar-Rabad fortress, which overlooks the town. The view from its heights was incredible. I was impressed by this well-fortified, Medieval construction, complete with dungeons, round towers with battlements, torture chambers and moats.

I recommend you hire a guide, who'll provide you with a fascinating narrative - the walls, after all, can't tell their own story. You'll learn, for example, that the castle formed part of a chain of dovecotes (along with Kerak and Belvoir on the other side of Jordan) between Damascus and Cairo that allowed allies to communicate by carrier pigeons!