After a few weeks spent in the suffocating heat of Rajasthan during our tour of India, we headed for the fresher, cooler environment of Sikkim, a semi-autonomous part of India. Though Pelling is not a town to spend several days in, it is necessary to go there when heading out on a trek.
We weren't able to see the breathtakingly steep scenery and surroundings for the first few days due to the Himalayan mist (it was the August monsoon season). And this also wasn't always an easy place to visit: exhausting, humid, and worst of all … leeches! They get everywhere; they are everywhere: on the ground, on the trees, slyly hiding in the ceilings of the shabby guesthouses. Though this wasn't an easy, straightforward type of adventure, it certainly left an impression on me!
On the last day of our trek, the fine weather finally made its appearance and we were able to enjoy the Himalayan views: various shades of green and the azure blue of the sky; and in frequent places along the route, prayer flags. Our last stopover was at a very colorful little village, with a huge Buddhist temple standing on the heights above it.
When I first arrived in Pelling on my trip to India, I was a little bit disappointed due to the rain. It meant I missed out on seeing the sunrise over Kangchenjunga (though I did finally get to see it on the last day).
There are plenty of other reasons to visit Pelling though. Firstly, there is Pemayangste Monastery, which can easily be reached on foot. Pelling is also ideal as a base from which to trek from Khecheopalri Lake to Tashiding Monastery, passing through Yuksom along the way. The passenger jeeps you can catch from the crossroads at Upper Pelling are infrequent and not always on time; you may find yourself obliged to improvise your tour by simply asking to be dropped off in whichever village you find interesting.
Pelling, which is constructed along a winding road, is divided into three parts: Lower Pelling, Middle Pelling and Upper Pelling. There are no problems accessing anything here and it's easy to meet and make friends with other tourists. To warm myself up, I visited one of the cosy little restaurants in the town and sampled some tongba, the local millet beer. They also served potatoes with cheese and cream there!