Varanasi (India)

Varanasi is an incredible town, not least because of its buzzing energy. To die in Varanasi, according to Hindu beliefs, brings salvation and ends the cycle of reincarnation. The town, therefore, welcomes pilgrims from all over India for whom it is particularly important. What's more the town is impressive, packed with tiny streets easy to get lost in - I forget how many times I got disorientated when trying to find my guest house!

During my stay I had the chance to see a festival dedicated to the goddess Sarasvati. Processions of chariots cross the town, each carrying huge speakers that blast out music whilst crowds dance along behind them. The procession ends on the banks of the Ganges, where believers throw effigies of the goddess into the river so as to attract her blessing. An incredible sight. Discover India by visiting Varanasi ; you'll find yourself in one of the country's most important and popular towns.

Visiting Varanasi is a 'spiritual highlight' of any trip to India. And of course, I stayed for several days. Let me explain why.

I woke up on a cold, foggy morning in one of the oldest towns in the world. It was once called Kashi, then Mohammadabad and now Varanasi or Benares. Officially it's known as Varanasi, as the name comes from its two rivers, the Varuna and the Assi. Benares was a name chosen by the English during colonial times. Coming here for a Hindhu is the same as a pilgrimage to Mecca by a Muslim. Four million Hindhus come each year to bathe and cleanse their souls in the water of the Ganges. For Hindus, to die in Varansi brings salvation, as it will end their cycle of reincarnation. It ensures emancipation or 'moksha'. It's similar to the Buddhist aim of attaining Nirvana. To purify themselves, pilgrims plunge themselves three times in the freezing river, whilst reciting a sacred mantra. They follow this by swallowing a mouthful of the water. Bearing in mind how dirty the river is, you need to a faithful follower. Or maybe the water has miraculous qualities and the filth won't harm you. But to break the myth... The river resembles an open sewer rather than a fountain of youth. Chemical waste from neigboring factories, badly burnt, decomposing cadavres, sewage from the town - the level of faecal matter has to be ten times more than a person can tolerate. But even if pollution levels are high, the Ganges remains a sacred river with purifying qualities, according to 900 million Hindhus. Walking along the length of the Ghats, I arrived at Dasashwamedh Ghat. It's where boatmen gather to offer tours along the river, alongside hoards of scammers and petty crooks that come in all shapes and sizes. Barbers, masseurs, street sellers, ear-candlers - the competition between them is hot. And further along is Manikarnika Ghat. This is where the cremations are held. And when evening falls, you can head back to Dasashwamedh Ghat to witness the puja or ritual prayers. It's a prayer offering of light to the Ganges. Young Brahman line the large platforms. They perform a dancing ritual, swinging candlelit lamps that exude clouds of incense. And at the end of the ceremony, the priests hand out floating candles so that wishes can be made to the Ganges.

You can feel a bit shaken up after a visit to Varanasi.