Kobayr (Armenia)

It is a wonderfully rewarding feeling when you reach Kobayr at the end of the trail after leaving the Debed Canyon at Tumanian and tackling the steep climb up to the plateau. The valley/plateau contrast is one of the most fascinating aspects of Lori. And the cherry on the cake? All the historical sites here, such as Kobayr. Who were the people that built a monastery from dressed stone at the edge of a precipitous cliff, and what was their aim in so doing? Was it for the purposes of self protection, and to be visible from all around at the same time?

These overgrown ruins, blending in so well with the natural vegetation all around and bringing to mind the artistic refinement of mediaeval Armenia, made an immediate and strong impression on me when I first arrived at the site. Koabyr Monastery experienced its heyday between the 11th and 13th centuries, when the Bagratuni dynasty was at the height of its powers. It was carefully restored in 2006 after having been left to abandon at various times and the renovations carried out have not caused the ruins to lose their spiritual and traditionally authentic character, as can sometimes happen in such cases.

Enter the apse of the Katoghike Church and you'll discover a wonderful scene made up of of demolished yet well preserved dressed stones lying on the ground, still-standing columns, and magnificent wall frescoes that have survived the years. If you venture away from the monastery, you can get wonderful views of the ancient ramparts, which blend so well into the local landscape, and of the best-preserved sections of the buildings.