There are two ways to access the park on the South African side - Parfuri and Giryondo from the southwest - and two in Mozambique, Massingir and Mapai. I took the first route, as the second route's roads are in bad condition - I would strongly warn against it.
I noticed that there are really not that many animals compared with reserves in South Africa or Swaziland: during the war, the park was a hunting zone. Even so, I came across elephants and giraffes: just amazing!
You can do canoeing, trekking or even visit the local peoples. Personally I went on safari in a four-by-four and on foot and I loved meeting the inhabitants of the park who were part of the Shangaan tribe: they know the bush inside out. It was an encounter which really left an impression during my trip.