The history of the region is very singular and a visit to it really changes from the other South African regions. Transkei was an indigenous black region created at the end of the 19th century and declared independent in 1976. It was never recognised by the Apartheid regime and re-entered South Africa when the regime collapsed in 1994.
Today, life here is very tribal and rural. I adored walking in the countryside (as far as Qunu village where Nelson Mandela grew up), you really feel like you are in Africa and Xhosa traditions are very strong here (the singing is incredible!). This matriarchal society gives women great responsibility: village chief, sangoma (native doctor)... In addition to looking after the house and the children. They are very firm-handed!
The hilly landscape, with colourful huts typical of Xhosa villages standing on it, is magical. Mthatha, the capital, is the hub of activity for the whole region and its market is gigantic and colourful. You must absolutely pay a visit to the Nelson Mandela Museum there!