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An update from Evaneos
Madagascar

Fianarantsoa and its surroundings

Getaway to Betsileo country: where there's plenty for the grower and the hiker!

Because an adventure on foot promotes meeting people, my first foray in the Highlands led me to the outskirts of Fianarantsoa, ready to experience the magic of these opportunities for sharing, sustained by the simplicity and generosity that you never get tired of.

So here I am leaving to travel around in the kingdom of farmers, to immerse myself in what is still peasant life, in a devoted demonstration of agricultural activity that is the pride of its people.

Homes made of brick...and whatever else?

Alternating between valleys and mountains, landscapes of rice terraces and plateaus where cassava and sweet potatoes are grown, hiking at the foot of Somaina Mountain offers the Sunday hiker an amazing diversity of landscapes!

And in this particularly photogenic rural setting, the picturesque Betsileo villages do not lose any of their charm. After the skillfully carved wooden houses, we chose to take refuge in these ochre brick houses covered with thatched roofs, to see if they stay cooler than our air-conditioned Western homes...

Besides, that evening we were welcomed like royalty, in authentic, non-standard accommodations. Unified in their hospitality, the villagers welcomed us in their rural cottages that were converted into bunkhouses. That night, the life of the village cradled us in warmth and protection, a true reflection of our hosts!

Peasant polyphony

Here, the hammer and anvil echoes wake us up early in the morning... Yet, as the Betsileo are known as skilled blacksmiths, they become even more harmonious through their singing of Zafindraony and Rija, polyphonic songs that express joy and bring balance to the community.

Structured and tight-knit, Betsileo community villages traditionally perform these songs to express the spirit of their culture, rooted in sharing and tradition: this is the concept of Fihavanana. Unfortunately, we would need more than 3 nights to truly soak up this vocal exercise and observe the results in our caste of "vazaha" hikers!

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One zebu may be hiding another

Farmers, artisans and ranchers, the Betsileo, excellent workers and lovers of the Earth, increase skills and expertise, which they show us with much pride...

One of the island's iconic figures and a symbol of wealth, the zebu has significant importance in Betsileo society, while holding an essential place in village tradition. Apart from working in the fields for agricultural activities, it provides a way for young men to prove their manhood. By testing their strength and justifying their bravery, they greatly increase their chances of attracting the women they love.

Far less courageous than these Betsileo valiants, we take fewer risks this evening, confronted with the zebu on our plates. Today's special, Romazava with greens for a gastronomic duel worthy of a huge feast! Our guests don't seem to blame us, letting us leave the ochre and fertile land the next day at dawn, tip-toeing like Dahalos, the fierce zebu thieves.

As for logistics...

This immersion in Betsileo Country requires the services of a local Malagasy guide and even a team of porters! This is the price you pay to encourage encounters with local people. Leaving from Fianarantsoa, it's only a one hour trip to the foot of Somaina Mountain. In total, 3 days walking, 5 to 7 hours at a time, offering exceptional scenery in a very beautiful area, crossing remote villages (Ambatovory, Ankitapa and Ijobo), which guarantee us unforgettable hospitality!

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