There is not really that much to visit in Kigali's city centre. My favourite attraction: motorcycle-taxi rides. If you take necessary precautions , it is the most practical means of getting around and an excellent way to enjoy the city and its scenery. By day, a visit of the genocide memorial is at once informative and very moving, I actually burst into tears in the middle of the visit. To take my mind off it, I went walking in the Muslim neighbourhoods of Biryogo and Nyamirambo where the atmosphere is relaxed.
There is no shortage of places to go to in Kigali by night. The Kimihurura area abounds in bars and restaurants with a variety of cooking where mostly expatriates hang out. For a more modest price, I chose to go back towards the city centre and dine in a "cabaret" (small restaurant) which offers delicious shish kebab served with fried plantain and Primus, the local beer.