Unlike most Mongolian towns and villages, which are scattered across dry, dusty steppes, Tsetserieg stuck in my mind for a different reason. At the top of the pass, we were greeted with a view of green meadows surrounding a town that's crossed by a river on whose banks laundry had been laid out to dry.
The town centre is really lively. We loved the yurt camp that sits beside the road leading to Ihtamir. It's not the best place for a great meal, but we received a warm welcome, particularly by two drunk men who decided to follow us...a relatively common occurence in towns but rare in the steppes.
Transport options are numerous and include private hire cars. Write your destination on a piece of paper, head to the market place, negotiate a price and let the driver take you on your next adventure. It's the best way to get to Blanc Terhiyn Tsagaan Lake, close to Tariat at about 2 to 3 hours by car. It's a beautiful, quiet little corner - an absolute must-see.