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Two things you must do... visit the Great Mosque and try some of the local delicacies sold on foodstalls along its lanes. Xian was populated by Chinese Muslims, so you'll find buildings, cultural remains and food that differ greatly from those in Peking or Shanghai.
Take a bike tour of the town's ramparts, enjoy the Bell and Drum Towers at night, watch street shows and breathe in the buzz of the huge, open air market.
As most people know, Xian is home to the tomb of Qin Shi Huang and his world-famous terracotta army - this has to be seen to be believed!