Tarutao National Marine Park, a short break off the beaten track

Still relatively well preserved thanks to tourism, the islands of Tarutao National Marine Park present a wild and varied landscape to visitors. I recommend visiting Ko Lipe and Ko Tarutao, two of the park's most famous islands. Though very different from one another, they both have superb scenery to offer.

Ko Tarutao: a stormy past

Though the island is today a paradise for nature lovers, Ko Tarutao has not always been a welcoming place. From 1939 onward it was a prison colony, and two prisons were built there, one at Talo Udang Bay and one at Tal Wao Bay. Living conditions were very harsh, with one third of detainees dying during their detention.

Nature itself posed a threat, with malaria rife and sharks and crocodiles populating the area (don't worry, the latter are now all gone!). Once the Second World War came to an end, the prisons disappeared and the island became a hotbed of piracy. With the stormy events of its past behind it, Ko Tarutao returned to a more peaceful state once again, and in 1974 it was designated Thailand's second ever national park.

For adventurous travelers in search of solitude

With few tourists visiting the island today, adventurous travelers with a predilection for solitude are sure to adore it. There are no large holiday complexes, restaurants or shops here: just a small restaurant run by park rangers and a little grocery. When it comes to staying the night on the island, there are spacious, well-maintained bungalows provided by the rangers. You can also hire tents, or bring your own with you to the island, and camp next to the beach, lulled by the sound of the waves.

You will get the chance to encounter many types of animal on the island, especially dusky leaf monkeys (black colored monkeys with white rings around their eyes), toucans, and another type of large-billed bird the name of which I've forgotten. And from September to April turtles are present on several of the island's beaches. Find out from the rangers where the best places to see them are.

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Floriane Todoroff

On foot or by canoe

Ko Tarutao's main charm resides in its peacefulness and its deserted beaches, even though the latter are less suitable for bathing than those found on other islands in the archipelago. Hiking is the ideal way to get to know the island. If you have thighs of steel, you can also head off to explore the island by bicycle, though the terrain is hilly in places.

Another option is to hire a canoe and paddle through the mangroves to the crocodile cave, which at one time was infested by crocodiles. Don't worry, they've apparently all gone now, at least that's what we were told, and we didn't encounter any! Take a torch with you to enable you to explore the cave by canoe. On the way there you may have numerous opportunities to see monitor lizards basking on the rocks, or swimming rapidly from one bank to the other.

Ko Lipe: a destination for lovers of wonderful beaches

Though you might find the more tourist-oriented Ko Lipe disappointing after the solitude of Ko Tarutao, you're certain to be charmed by its crystal clear waters, coconut palms and seabeds. There isn't a great deal to do on this tiny little island, other, that is, than tranquilly enjoy the little corner of heaven it offers, try your hand at scuba diving, splash around in the clear water for hours on end, etc. And at the end of the day, watch the sun go down as you enjoy the taste of a tom yam soup.

Practical information about Ko Tarutao National Park

You can reach the park by taking a boat from the port in Pak Bara. It takes about an hour to get to Ko Tarutao (by speedboat it's 30 minutes, though if you're like me and suffer from seasickness, don't chose this option – very bumpy!). It's also possible to travel between the islands!